𞋴𝛂𝛋𝛆
- 49 Posts
- 103 Comments
0·2 hours agoRepublicans have a 2k year old 𝔖𝔴𝔢𝔢𝔱 𝔄𝔫𝔡 𝔖𝔩𝔬𝔴 tradition
3·2 hours agoMust be why he looks like he has a bad liver or too much colloidal silver, like some dumb smurf-hillbilly Hoosier
1·1 hour agoThat won’t be a Russian thing for long. We’ll all be doing it soon. What started with Reagan was a gamble on stability that the west has lost so badly it is time for our century of humiliation. We make nothing of value and have no way to get that back now. Services are for slaves; masters Make.
4·5 hours agodichotomous thinking is the pretentiously fun term
0·5 hours agoThat is the kind of example that should be in the manpage. Thanks
I didn’t think there was anything worth watching before. I’m certain now. All ads are insults to your time and intelligence.
Smooth prusa powder coated works great.
Drying makes a gigantic difference. It only takes around an hour in the open before TPU changes significantly from any ambient moisture and become visible in the print.
If you can control the moisture to a minor degree, you can alter the mechanical properties significantly. Once you hear popping, you’ll likely start blowing holes in prints, but there is a stage before this where the bubbles of gases are present but are not coalescing into the larger audible voids of escaping steam. You will see this on long prints using dried TPU filament left out in the open. There will be a much tougher start to the print that gradually degrades into a slightly softer and more flexible texture. It will likely turn slightly foam-like spongy rubbery soft for a section and then it will start popping and dropping walls with holes in the structure.
If you write down the room temperature and humidity and note the time it takes to get to this moisture property, it becomes possible to alter the flexible properties or empirical hardness of a TPU to make it behave in off label ways. This is essentially creating your own rudimentary foaming or light weight filament. It works best for vase mode or other small single wall structures. I have used this based on intuition alone. I imagine with a bit of record keeping one could control the humidity of a box to do longer prints within this state of foaming softness. I don’t know of anyone using a humidifier like the ones for acoustic guitar cases or cigars in a filament box, but that would be an interesting thing to play with too.
0·1 day agoThe shim is the secure boot key that slides under the Microsoft package key on your machine. There is a US department of defense PDF floating around that goes into how to set your own keys in UEFI but your bootloader form the OEM may not include all of the UEFI stuff to do this in the user interface. There is a way to boot into UEFI ad set keys manually. The tool is called Keytool. Gentoo has a guide but it is written for advanced competency (beyond mine).
As far as I am aware, only the base vanilla Ubuntu is signed under the shim key for Debian. All of the official Fedora distros are under their shim IIRC. The unofficials like Silverblue are not – again IIRC.
The shim is only available to the person that is the final package maintainer for the distro. They have a key signed by Microsoft so that you are literally using the Windows key to sign the bootable code of the distro. This comes with headaches as you will not be able to modify and run kernel bootable executable stuff, but that may not matter to you. In particular, it makes Nvidia stuff a pain in the ass if you need to freeze or alter the kernel module driver in some way.
The Microsoft key is the second level key, sorry I forget the names of the levels. I know one is called the Package Key but I forget the other and which level is higher by name. The higher level key is the one from the manufacturer. They can send or possibly force updates to UEFI using this key. These keys are also compromised from time to time so there is that too. The fact you can boot into UEFI sounds scary AF to me and my paranoid ass but whatever. The MINIX system always running in the background of x86 is another (Intel ME/AMD has equivalent).
You don’t have to change your keys but you can if you wish, or you’re supposed to be able to. If you sign your own key at the highest level (manufacturer), then you can use a Microsoft website to get a new key at the OS level and use it. Then you fully control Secure Boot and your UEFI. I recommend looking up the PDF. If you search Lemmy I have talked about it with people a few times and linked it but I don’t have it bookmarked and am too lazy to go find it for you right now. That guide goes through the details in a very approachable way intended for competent people in general but not niche IT or CS grad level like how Arch or Gentoo tend to write, it was very RHEL level approachable.
Look up Gentoo, Arch, and RHEL for documentation. You can also reference linux-hardware.org to potentially check what others are running. Scan and uploaded your stuff to share with others too. It is easy and only takes a minute.
UEFI is a can of worms. I don’t know enough to be more helpful. When messing with SB keys, Gentoo had good info when I needed it. Fedora uses the Anaconda system for SB stuff and is quite advanced. That is another place to look for clues.
161·2 days agoLeaves echo chamber ahhh WTF!
I post hobby stuff I’m working on. Everybody seems to care very little. I try to say stop being assholes and people hate for it.
Bias here seems typical for tech geekigarchy. After 2 years on Lemmy – echo chambers are also self selecting and self filtering.
4·2 days agoJoining over half a million homeless feral humans
91·2 days ago“Randomize seams” uhh no, design parts with seams in mind if they are critical. I often add a small 0.3mm double chamfer “zipper” on a surface because it will accommodate the inconsistency and reduce it by forcing the root inside the body. I’ve made my own infill structures and patterns lately too.
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You can just slap a dial gauge on the gantry and move the X/Y manually to see exactly what the deviation is. A decent second-hand dial gauge on eBay will run you $20 shipped.
If you get into the weeds, there is not an accurate method of triggering any form of mechanical stop that involves touch or a hall effect probe. You must get into optics for real accuracy, but that is nonsense for the materials and scope of printing. You would need to eliminate many other variables like the filament accuracy and how backlash and step accuracy are eliminated as issues.
As a former owner of an auto body shop with employees, most people do not know what clean is or how tooth is required. Like isopropyl alcohol has its place but is ultimately extremely weak at real cleaning problems. In automotive paint, silicone is a major problem. It primarily comes from tire dressing that makes them look slick black. The amount of effort it takes to remove that junk for automotive quality work is insane. Most chemicals just push the junk around but leaves or dilutes the issue often making it worse. One of the big tricks in automotive stuff is (to use a chemical cleaning step first but -) a few drops of dish soap in the wet sanding bucket. The light soap will keep the sand paper clean and working longer, but makes most work also cleaning work. Anyways, dish soap can be very effective. Acetone occasionally on a surface is also effective. Virgin lacquer thinner is the strongest common solvent but it can react with lots of stuff and you are unlikely to find true virgin solvent. The recycled stuff has a paint stripper component in it that will cause epic nightmares and reacts with almost all plastics. Acetone is much cleaner and consistent unless it is sold for junk like nail polish.
The general rule of thumb is to assume a mechanical tooth adhesion is the primary form of bonding unless there is a catalyst involved (2k urethane/epoxy primers/clear). That rule can easily apply to 3d printing and bed adhesion. I see a lot of the same types of effects from different surfaces and filaments. In automotive paint, there are even special adhesion promoters like Bulldog for spraying plastic parts ahead of other finishes. I had other adhesion promotion tricks too, like a mist coating of clear coat. The main trick with all automotive paint adhesion is to know what grit or “tooth” each thing you’re spraying wants to grab onto and prep accordingly. So in 3d printing I use a similar approach with the general safe bet of sanding my smooth build plates to 600 grit. With sanding, do not start dirty, like you’re trying to embed junk into the surface. Start clean, then knock off the shine to a smooth and consistent matte finish on the entire surface. When it comes to sanding like this, edges and any anomalies are absolutely forbidden to sand. Never touch your edges until last when everything else is done. Edges are always thinnest and most vulnerable to causing issues especially for the inexperienced. You match them to the rest of the matte surface carefully at the end.
Clean a smooth build plate with acetone like once or twice a year and then sand it to matte, clean that with dish soap, then alcohol with each print. That will completely eliminate contamination as a cause. If you have old skool clean glass with no coatings as a build plate, sanding is optional because you can use something like lacquer thinner or less effective acetone to get it absolutely clean.
Perfect first layers are possible with enough fussing with the software. If you really want to level the bed with hardware, use a dial gauge clamped to the extruder. That will remove all of the averaging and inaccuracies from probing if it is a quality gauge that is smooth and not sticky. You would need to get into optics for true accuracy like with closed loop control systems that are an order of magnitude more expensive than 3d printers. 3d printers are precision machines with no accuracy. The 0,0 home location is always slightly different, but all measurements are based upon this location. This issue becomes relevant with IDEX and CNC. Going well beyond these – in optics accuracy requires a defraction grading and alignment of light wave patterns. I so want to get into that one to grind my own telescope mirrors. Typically accurate machines use a flag of metal sticking out somewhere at a known location and an optical encoder switch that gets interrupted without anything touching as this is typically the closest you’ll get to real accuracy down to the clock and instructions timing of the interrupt routine in the microcontroller.
If you have v-roller wheels on extrusions, one other major potential issue is that extrusions have a relatively large twist tolerance component in their specification. It is extremely difficult to detect this kind of twist, but it is a major potential issue. It generally requires a high metrology grade granite surface block and parallel sticks to measure twist in a precision instrument’s linear bearings… as far as I understand it. I have seen such things being measured but have never done so myself.
Very cool. I was thinking about ways of making a potentiometer knob on an audio amp more visually interesting. The moire effect might be one to play around with.
I don’t think I would trust this one in practice, but the effect is interesting. I found it far more necessary to learn the vernier scale with micrometers. It felt much more useful understanding the practical limitations and scope of when to use calipers versus a mic. While there are super accurate calipers, relatively cheap calipers and micrometers are far cheaper and easier for most people to access.
When it comes to radius gauges I trust these more than any of the others I have tried:
I know this kinda isn’t the point, but using it as an excuse to share – the fishing leader line to hold a set like this is key to making them super handy. Unfortunately I have only used micrometers on a few 3d printing projects. Those are more used within the machining realm.
here is what is inside
took way too long to figure out/make a small gif in Linux and even this one took hacking slow frames to get under 300kB with gnome screen capture, ffmpeg, gimp, and gifsicle to capture a simple FreeCAD turntable.
Thanks. I’m not worried. I have nothing to lose and anyone scraping has enough to find me if they really wanted to. If they are after some physically disabled guy, hopefully they do a better job than the person that left me like this.
11·10 days agoUS is not supporting Russia, but Iran is. Israel is atrocious and it would not surprise me at all if they absolutely know about Oct 7th well in advance. It was the result if their prejudice and Palestinian concentration camps before Oct 7th in either case that caused the initial attack. However it was not entirely without cause like with Russia in Ukraine. Everywhere is complicated. The USA is super polarized and in pretty bad shape, but it us not exporting suicide bombers. Is it better to target with 10 million dollar munitions remotely no, but those are not targeting crowds of people as the primary goal
It was the change in Syria and the mountain on the boarder that Israel now controls that changed the geopolitical situation and strategy. The radar shadow of that mountain was what prevented Israel from having an opportunity to stop or influence Iran’s nuclear policy. Some deeper depth geopolitical youtubers have done uploads on this change and implications. The position will likely end up back in Syrian hands eventually… or it might. Again like I have said elsewhere, I don’t support Israel or their escalations but Iran is shit. They are supplying arms to Russia, exporting terrorism, and run by a disordered misogynistic group of men that kill in the name of fantasy and a collective imaginary friend that no one has ever had a real conversation with. That is fucking cave man level bullshit from anyone anywhere.
I have no skin in this, but VC is involved with Bambu, as I understand things. That never goes well for consumers. They backpedaled to slow down the path to closed garden exploitation, but took no steps to open source or sell a legitimate product that can be owned. The solution is unplug it from the internet cause we gonna do what we gonna do (fu fu)
Build a Voron and own it for life. I know the excuses, but burning ownership-money, only to rent what someone else controls is mental. In the big picture, that is willingly selling your right to citizenship for neo feudalism as a slave to an overlord. It really is that simple. Normalizing that dystopia hurts everyone else too. But hey you do you. I’m happy for ya if that is your cup of tea.